Guides / Getting started
Choosing your fabric and working out the size
The same chart can come out 11 or 18 cm wide depending on the fabric. One simple division tells you what you will get, and how much fabric to cut.
The chart gives a number of stitches; the fabric decides how much room each one takes. One division gives the finished size, one addition the fabric to cut.
What you need
- The chart, with its size in stitches
- A piece of fabric
- A tape measure
- Dressmaking scissors
- Brightly coloured tacking thread
What the count means
The number on the label (11, 14, 16, 18) counts stitches per inch, that is per 2.54 cm. The higher it is, the smaller the stitches.
The same heart on 11, 14 and 18-count, to the same scale: the more stitches the cloth has to the inch, the smaller the piece.- 14-count: 5.5 stitches per centimetre, 2 strands. The best choice to start.
- 11-count: big stitches, easy to see, 3 strands, a blockier look.
- 16 and 18-count: finer, slower, and a good lamp. For the pieces after that.
- How many strands for each fabric: see preparing the thread.
Working out the finished size
Divide the number of stitches by the fabric's stitches per centimetre: the fabric sets the size.
- 80 × 100 stitches on 14-count aida: 14.5 × 18.1 cm.
- The same chart: 18.5 × 23.1 cm on 11-count, 11.3 × 14.1 cm on 18-count.
- The fabric calculator does the sum for every fabric, drawn to scale.
- Starting from a photo? Choose the size of the chart first.
÷ 5.5 to turn stitches into centimetres, on 14-count aida
Evenweave and linen: over two
No blocks here, just fine threads: each stitch goes over two threads each way.
30-count linen up close: no squares or marked holes, you count the threads themselves, two to a stitch. Photo: PKM, CC0- A finer, softer background, and easier three-quarter stitches.
- But you count the threads of the weave: keep them for later.
| Linen or evenweave, over two | Same size as |
|---|
| 28-count | 14-count aida |
| 32-count | 16-count aida |
| 36-count | 18-count aida |
The colour of the fabric
- Ecru warms the whole piece and forgives small gaps between stitches.
- On dark fabric, a bright white such as B5200 really stands out.
- The fabric is part of the palette: see choosing your DMC colours.
- ✓ White or ecru to start: the holes show and the colours stay true.
- ✗ Black for a first piece: the holes are barely visible.
Tip. Stitching on dark fabric? Lay a pale cloth over your lap: the holes jump out at once.
Allowing for margins
For an 80 × 100 stitch chart on 14-count aida, cut 24.5 × 28.1 cm.
- The margin goes in the hoop and wraps round the board when you frame the piece.
- Under a wide mount, allow 7 to 8 cm instead.
5 cm of extra fabric on each side of the design
| Square chart | Design on 14-count | Fabric to cut |
|---|
| 50 stitches | 9.1 cm | 19.1 cm |
| 70 stitches | 12.7 cm | 22.7 cm |
| 100 stitches | 18.1 cm | 28.1 cm |
| 150 stitches | 27.2 cm | 37.2 cm |
Preparing the fabric
Five minutes before the first stitch, for fabric that stays neat to the end.
Fold in two, then in four: the centre is where the creases cross. On the chart, the small arrows on the edges point to it.- Cut the fabric along a row of holes, to keep it straight.
- Secure the edges: a machine zigzag, overcasting, or masking tape.
- Fold the fabric in half, then in four: the centre is where the folds cross.
- Mark it with a pin, then tack a line every ten rows (reading a chart).